The Surfing Realtor’s 2003 Indonesian Surf Adventure
Flew out of Kahului and after a layover in Honolulu and Guam arrived in Bali 18 hours later and lost a day (past over the date line) Arrived at 9:30 pm and was picked up by the boys from Bobby’s surf camp and headed straight out to G-Land (eight hour van, ferry and boat ride) Picked up J.D. and Brian on the way (hadn’t seen JD for almost over 5 years but she still looks great – not to mention that she is an incredible surfer). Had a few beers and tried to sleep.
Up most of the night and take the 1 and a half hour boat ride to the camp. Met Jeff from South Aus on the fairy the night before – I was so tired I barely remember it. Once I found out that he was a commercial shark fisherman and he found out that I had brought fishing gear for two – I new I had found my fishing partner for the trip. He had just returned from a two-week boat trip in the Mentawai islands off Sumatra and was just looking to relax a bit at G-land. The surf was 4 to 5 foot (8 to 10 foot faces) when we arrived and even though I was beat tired I still surfed 3 hours. There where 30 people in camp – and hooked up my buddy Donny Potter. Had a nice nap then beers and noodles.
Met Juan from Cabo, Mexico (now living on the Big Island) and he, Jeff and I made the three mile walk (1 hour and 10 minutes each way) to the big pass in the reef for some fishing in the morning. The tide was low and the wind had not come up so the surf was only going to get better. Fished for about 1.5 hours and Jeff and I each caught a nice sized G.T. (travellie /ulua) 8 to 10 pounds. Surf had cleaned up when we made it back to camp – had some lunch and surfed 3 hours 4-5 foot. Played music with Rama from the North shore of Oahu and ate Sashimi.
Surf way down Jeff tried to get me to walk back down to the big pass – but my sore legs said no. Made deal with Buchy (indo – boat driver) he took us to the big pass on the boat and we lost four of our good lures, got three fish – one of them almost 20 lb. Much easer than walking. Back to camp by 11 am had some lunch, relaxed and read most of the afternoon – no surf – beer and sashimi.
Surf camp up big! 6 to 8’ (12 to 16’ faces) had a new group of surfers come in camp including my childhood friend Adlai Rust (now living in L.A.) as well as Craig and Heather from Maui. I waited for the tide and surfed over 4 hours – got some incredible tubes and long ass rides. Hit the bottom hard at Speed Reef and cut my hand and feet and put some nice holes in my 7’ board. Had beer and sashimi – last of the fish.
Rained very hard in the early morning – still good-sized swell, 5-7’ with some bigger ones now and then. Adlei sick – Bali belly no surf for him. I surfed twice – three hours in the morning and went back out for two more hours in the PM. The afternoon surf was heavy. Jeff and I paddled out to Kong’s and it was so misty that we couldn’t see the beach or any other surfers out at Money Trees (main spot) It was so big and lumpy that we had a hard time catching waves. Jeff told me that if he caught one he was going to just keep on going. That’s all I needed to hear – I caught the next set and must have road it 200 yds. I looked back and he was gone in the mist so I just kept on going – 400 yds and two waves later I couldn’t believe that I found a pack of 10 guys out at Money’s – caught a few more waves and went in a little worried about Jeff – turned out he beat me in. Really starting to feel like I am getting into good surfing shape.
Surfed early today 3 hours on 4 to 6 foot peeling tubes. Got some great waves on my 6’6” board and really feeling strong in the water now. Adlei is still sick. Played music with Rama and Eric (he can sing unreal). Surfed another 3 hours until dark.
My buddy Adlai left camp today – to sick to stay. It was really great spending some time with him; in fact it was the most time I had spent with him in over 20 years. Surf went way down 2-3 foot surfed in the AM for about 3 hours and spent most of the day reading. Got a load of new surfers in camp but lost a lot (total of 22 in camp). Went fishing on the boat with Jeff and Buchy – rained real hard – cold – no fish. Played music with Winston from S. Africa.
Surfed Speed Reef with Jeff in the morning, only ones out, for almost 4 hours. It was perfect six foot barrels with a few bigger ones (12 to 15 foot faces). It was the best surf of the trip so far and had some long ass tube rides on my 6’6” board. Finished my 4th book and had a long nap. In great shape now and have lost at least 1” on my waist. Surfed Speedies till dark by my self – still good shape just real low tide. Pat Maus from Carlsbad and some of the boys from the North Shore came into camp and got good and drunk. They ended up wrestling in the bushes – oh to be a kid again.
Went fishing to the big pass in the morning on the boat with Jeff and Bushy. Lost a huge Ulua (30lb +) Jeff caught a killer 12 lb one and I caught two perfect gray snappers (Uku) one 10 lb and one 12 lb. Surf was about 4 to 5 foot and we surfed till dark. Juan’s last night – went down early.
Surf came up some to 4 to 6 foot at money trees. Surfed in the am for two hours got some of the best waves and big tube rides. Read most of the day and surfed till dark – got one of the longest tubes I can remember – very low tide. New people in camp about 35 total – most so far. My friend Lee from Aus (visited me on Maui during the winter) came in staying at Jolo’s Jungle camp with his buddy Poo.
Surf still good, about 3 to 5 foot. Surfed 3 hours mid day on the tide with Lee and Jeff got some great waves. All the pro’s out. Fished in the pm with Lee and Poo off speed reef – no fish. Camel made it to camp (G-land legend) and we hung out and had a few beers. It was Pat Maus and the boys last night, lots of drinking going on – Jack Daniels, Jose Quarvo, and Mr. Myers all went down, I watched for the most part and laughed my ass off at Pat’s antics.
Waves about the same 3 to 5 – rumor of a very large swell on the way, Donny called and said he was heading in to catch it. Surfed mid day for 3 hours – lots of great waves and some better than average tubes at speedies. Walked to the big pass (I was feeling like a work out) with Jeff, Shannon (from Aus) and Foxy (from Aus also – not sure of his real name), no fish – Roberto (the Indo fisherman) said that the water was just to cold to catch many fish “catch fish – thank you, no fish – it’s ok” what a great attitude he has. We tried so hard to catch one that we stayed to late and ended up walking back in the dark. The stars were bright but as soon as we got into the jungle is was all about walking on your hands and knees. Made it back just in time for dinner – sore legs early night.
Surf came up a notch 5 to 7 feet – 20 people leaving came 20 coming in for the big swell. Surfed 4 hours in the am – I really kicked in on some of the larger waves and got some outstanding tube rides. It is a great feeling being one of the older guys and getting some of the best waves. Bang Bang – one of my old friends that lives in Bali year round – came into camp and brought all the fixings to make a huge “Afghan Soup” It was unreal. After eating chicken, veggie’s and rice for two weeks (with some fish added in) I was wondering how many ways they could prepare it (not many). Gregg (the co-owner of Ridor wet suits) also came into camp. I had hung out with his partner Pete during my last trip to G-land so it was great getting to meet him as well.
Surf came up big 6 to 8 with 10 foot sets (16 to 20’ faces) Had a 4 hour season in the am then the tide went to low – I surfed my 6’6” board and got some insane waves but the big ones where very hard to catch. I switch off with Jeff and tried his 7’1” and could catch them but had a hard time turning it (Jiffs and big guy and his board reflects that), Willo, Spock and Hooky (all from Aus) came into camp – Bang Bang made beautiful spaghetti marinara and he and I played music till 8:30.
Surf is huge, 8-10 with some 12 foot sets – I paddled out the back with one guy out and got some bombs on my 7’ board right off the bat – caught a huge wave at launching pads (one of the largest waves in recent memory for me) and got the tube of my life through speed reed, I couldn’t believe it but Lee actually saw the wave! Surf got packed, about 30 guys on money trees with the tide going out fast. Met Scardy from www.globalsurfguides.com he is staying at the Jungle camp with Lee and Poo. He is a friend of my buddy Brookies (Ausi guy that visits me now and then) and a surf legend in his own right. Willow and Bangers last night – we played music and drank Rum and Wild Turkey – not much for me – the waves are way to big to be hung over.
Surf smaller today 4 to 6 with a few 8-foot bombs. Surfed my 6’6” board and got a full set on my 2ed wave – double barrel all the way through speed reef (must have been 200 to 250 yds long) waves were somewhat inconsistent. Surfed 3 hours and called it quits – started reading “seabisquit”. Starting to feel like the trip is starting to wind down and looking forward to getting home – missing the family. Went down to the Jungle camp (about a 1000 yd walk) and drank beer with Lee, Poo, Camel, Scardy, Jeff, Gregg and Dave (young guy from the north shore that has spent 4 or 5 seasons at G-Land – he rips) we had a great time watching surf videos of the past few days – none of me.
Be very careful what you wish for – you just might get it! 8 to 10 foot with 12-foot sets rocking the point – very heavy surf today. Paddled out the back and got worked (first time I didn’t make it out the back) took the tour of the reef down to speedies and finally made it out – it was fully unloading – very solid and lots of water moving. Fully 20 faces at launching pads and huge tubes at speed reef – stayed out 4 hours and got 3 decent waves – I guess I found my limit – to big for me. Camel and Dave where just taking the place apart and never missed a beat. I relaxed all afternoon – my body felt sore and old for the first time during the trip. Early night – want to finish seabisqit.
Today is my big boy’s “Ryan’s” birthday. I am thinking about you son – and love you tons! I have been trying to get a message out but the radio has been down for a week. Surf is smaller today – I am really feeling ready to leave camp tomorrow for Bali. Waves still 6 to 8 foot but the on shore winds came on with the tide. Jeff surfed solo early in the am – Gregg and I watched. Jeff came in and decided it was a good day to drink Wild Turkey and Coke – he did recover and surfed in the pm though. I surfed at noon for 3 hours and got some solid 6 foot waves at launching pads, maybe a few a bit bigger – I am packing up my things now for the long trip back to Bali – my bag is lighter as I have given away all my t-shirts to my new friends, lost most of my fishing lures and eaten most of my snacks. Its sad to leave but on to the next phase of my adventure on Bali. I am sure we will be drinking a few beers tonight.
Got up early and surfed Gregg’s 6’6” (mine was packed up and sent off early) The surf was 4 to 6 foot and very low tide. I got in over 2 hours then took the boat and van trip back to Bali with Jeff, Sara and Jeremiah. We had some beers on the ride and were a little sketched out because the Marriott in Jakarta was blown up that morning. Jeff and I stayed at the Melasti in Kuta and had a great dinner next door at the Japanese restaurant. I had eaten there three years ago with my buddy Simon from Maui and it was still great – we had a full feast of sushi sashimi and other Japanese delights. Went out to the Bounty nightclub for a few drinks and to meet up with Lee and Poo – Poo is a wild man on the dance floor (oh to be 22 again)!!
Day Twenty One
Got up early and went with Donny to Nusa Dua to order some bed spreads for my vacation rental homes – he packed me on his motor cycle and it was very exciting to say the least. I spent the afternoon working on getting a large cash advance on my credit card – not as easy as it sounds – very frustrating. Went to dinner with Jeff, lee, Poo, Sara, Jeremiah, Craig and Heather to Jiberon Beach. It was a great meal – a full seafood feast with lobster, crab, prawns, fish and squid – it was way more expensive than we expected but tasted great. Every one got the shits about 2 hours after dinner. We drank some beers at the “Surfers Bar” and tried to get Sara to the bungee jumping – early night.
Day Twenty Two
Spent the morning working on the $ and finally got a few thousand dollars to come through. Jeff and I headed out to Ubud (the artisan village) to do some shopping and have lunch. We went via Nusa Dua and I paid for the bed spreads. It was so beautiful up in the mountains with the rice paddies and cool air. We had a great lunch then bought a bunch of gifts and cloths (I really needed them at that point as I had given most of my shirts and shorts away). We stopped at a stone statue place on the way down the hill and checked the prices. Bang Bang made us beer butt chick (call for recipe) for dinner, Jeff Donny and I and it was great. It was Jeff’s last night so I bought him a bottle of JD and he must have drank half of it! He had to be to the airport by 11:30 pm and I don’t know how he made it. Banger and I played music until late and at this point the trip was really feeling over because my fishing and surfing mate had left for Aus.
Day Twenty Three
Got up early to get some more $ and after 5 hours of working on it I finally got 40 million rupe’s (about $4700 us). Donny and I headed out to the stone guy and bought 16 nice large statues and organized the shipping. Donny was a huge help and we went back to the Japanese place for dinner – flew out at 10 pm – going home baby!
Day Twenty Four
Flew from Bali to Guam, on to Honolulu then to Kahului and home sweet home. Suzy met me at the airport and she looked great – it was so great to be home. The Kids looked like they had grown 6” – such little dudes. I ended up ordering a bunch more stuff through Donny to fill up a container myself – lots of cool things not real useful though.
Just A Side Note
Well that’s it gang – another year and another experience – After a nice relaxing long weekend with the family – I am now back to work and loving it! I have some great memories of perfect surf and great new friends.
Buz ~ Your Surfing Realtor